Posted: April 30, 2015 Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: bike frame storage, bike workshop, brass brazing, Brazing, butt gauge, butted tubing, cast iron surface table, dropout, fork bender, fork blade bender, fork end, frame building, frame jig, framebuilding, gas fluxer
Hello again, I’m sorry I haven’t posted anything for a while but I’ve been busy doing stuff like this at my new workshop:
I had a baby.
He should come in handy for those menial tasks..
Putting a horizontal mill together on top of a cast flypress stand. I’ll put a variable speed motor on it for tube mitring.
My gasfluxer. Very worthwhile bit of kit.
I made this brazing stand/workstand.
I made 2 bike frame peg rails. The headtubes slide over the pegs which are covered with pvc hose.
I cut all these tool slots on the Bridgeport mill out the back. We have a full machine shop on site.
I use this old jalopy bike when the canal path’s muddy.
I made this stainless bike for myself. Perhaps I’ll make more..
I bought a number 4 flypress on a stand. I want to use this to form chainstay dimples, among other things.
I’ve now got the first increased-offset Sputnik Tool frame jig. I had to get the Park workstand base to attach it to my home-made stand.
Amazing what you can do with a torch and some pound shop black spray paint.
Rick’s frame is in for me to make a matching fork. Sorry, I know I need to tidy up!
I improved my gas economiser. Now my torch can’t rotate. I wish it was cordless as it appears to be here, but I just swapped it out for my bigger one to braze the fork crown.
My good friend John made this fork blade bender. The form goes from a 5″ radius to a 15″ radius. This was all made on a manual Bridgeport mill. The most I did was a bit of deburring and helping to lift the huge rotary table.
Fork bender clamp. I’ve now adapted this to give clearance for mudguard eyes.
Fork bender roller. This part plays a pivotal role. Arf arf!
John put a long handle on the tool so that it’ll manage any fork blades with ease.
I have a few frame repairs in. Best to keep them high up out of harm’s way.
I had this “christmas tree” alignment gauge waterjet cut from stainless steel. It makes aligning a frame very easy. You zero the V onto the seat tube to check that the dropouts are centred and spaced correctly. I used London Waterjet’s finest cut.
£25 each to you…?
I silver brazed this little stainless spiggot on top of the threaded portion of my BB post.
It stops the top cap from falling on the table or the frame.
I found this old suspension bump stop on the road. I drilled a hole in it so it now makes the post a bit safer in case I slip and put it through my arm.
Rick’s fork will be my first use of my new bender..
Cleaning the inside of the fork blades.
Making the slotted sandpaper holder was time well spent.
Preparing the fork blades for brazing. I used an end mill to slot the blades in the Bridgeport. A radius is less prone to forming cracks so I file the fork ends to fit.
Fork end after brazing. I’ll soak off the flux and sand it up nicely.
More brazing to clean up.
This is the Paris Brest fork crown after brazing onto the steerer and a soak in the water tank. I gave it a little sanding and filing. It’ll get more love after the fork is made.
This is the rosebud heating tip that I use for fork crown/steerer brazing. It is fast!
This is the number 2 nozzle that I use for fork ends.
I milled a 3mm anti-rotation groove along the steerer threads.
I cleaned up any burrs with a thread repair file. Now the headset nut glides freely.
This steel rule that John has freaks me out…
Stay tuned for my next post for bender performance, laser-sintered titanium dropouts and more!