Wilkinson Cycles Global HQ

Hello again, I’m sorry I haven’t posted anything for a while but I’ve been busy doing stuff like this at my new workshop:

I had a baby.

I had a baby.

He should come in handy for those menial tasks..

Putting a horizontal mill together on top of a cast flypress stand.

Putting a horizontal mill together on top of a cast flypress stand. I’ll put a variable speed motor on it for tube mitring.

My gasfluxer.  Very worthwhile bit of kit.

My gasfluxer. Very worthwhile bit of kit.

I made this brazing stand/workstand.

I made this brazing stand/workstand.

I made 2 bike frame peg rails.  The headtubes slide over the pegs which are covered with pvc hose.

I made 2 bike frame peg rails. The headtubes slide over the pegs which are covered with pvc hose.

I cut all these tool slots on the Bridgeport mill out the back.  We have a full machine shop on site.

I cut all these tool slots on the Bridgeport mill out the back. We have a full machine shop on site.

I use this old jalopy bike when the canal path's muddy.

I use this old jalopy bike when the canal path’s muddy.

I made this stainless bike for myself.    Perhaps I'll make more..

I made this stainless bike for myself. Perhaps I’ll make more..

I bought a number 4 flypress on a stand.  I want to use this to form chainstay dimples, among other things.

I bought a number 4 flypress on a stand. I want to use this to form chainstay dimples, among other things.

I've now got the first increased-offset Sputnik Tool frame jig. I had to get the Park workstand base to attach it to my home-made stand.

I’ve now got the first increased-offset Sputnik Tool frame jig. I had to get the Park workstand base to attach it to my home-made stand.

Amazing what you can do with a torch and some pound shop black spray paint.

Amazing what you can do with a torch and some pound shop black spray paint.

Rick's frame is in for me to make a matching fork.  Sorry, I know I need to tidy up!

Rick’s frame is in for me to make a matching fork. Sorry, I know I need to tidy up!

I improved my gas economiser.  Now my torch can't rotate.  I wish it was cordless as it appears to be here, but I just swapped it out for my bigger one to braze the fork crown.

I improved my gas economiser. Now my torch can’t rotate. I wish it was cordless as it appears to be here, but I just swapped it out for my bigger one to braze the fork crown.

My good friend John made this fork blade bender.  The form goes from a 5

My good friend John made this fork blade bender. The form goes from a 5″ radius to a 15″ radius. This was all made on a manual Bridgeport mill. The most I did was a bit of deburring and helping to lift the huge rotary table.

Fork bender clamp.  I've now adapted this to give clearance for mudguard eyes.

Fork bender clamp. I’ve now adapted this to give clearance for mudguard eyes.

Fork bender roller.  This part plays a pivotal role.  Arf arf.

Fork bender roller. This part plays a pivotal role. Arf arf!

John put a long handle on the tool so that it'll manage any fork blades with ease.

John put a long handle on the tool so that it’ll manage any fork blades with ease.

I have a few frame repairs in.  Best to keep them high up out of harm's way.

I have a few frame repairs in. Best to keep them high up out of harm’s way.

I had this

I had this “christmas tree” alignment gauge waterjet cut from stainless steel. It makes aligning a frame very easy. You zero the V onto the seat tube to check that the dropouts are centred and spaced correctly. I used London Waterjet’s finest cut.

£25 each to you...?

£25 each to you…?

I silver brazed this little stainless spiggot on top of the threaded portion of my BB post.

I silver brazed this little stainless spiggot on top of the threaded portion of my BB post.

It stops the top cap from falling on the table or the frame.

It stops the top cap from falling on the table or the frame.

I found this old suspension bump stop on the road.  I drilled a hole in it so it now makes the post a bit safer in case I slip and put it through my arm.

I found this old suspension bump stop on the road. I drilled a hole in it so it now makes the post a bit safer in case I slip and put it through my arm.

Rick’s fork will be my first use of my new bender..

Cleaning the inside of the fork blades.

Cleaning the inside of the fork blades.

Making the slotted sandpaper holder was time well spent.

Making the slotted sandpaper holder was time well spent.

preparing the fork blades for brazing.  I used an end mill to slot the blades in the Bridgeport.  A radius is less prone to forming cracks so I file the fork ends to fit.

Preparing the fork blades for brazing. I used an end mill to slot the blades in the Bridgeport. A radius is less prone to forming cracks so I file the fork ends to fit.

Fork end after brazing.  I'll soak off the flux and sand it up nicely.

Fork end after brazing. I’ll soak off the flux and sand it up nicely.

More brazing to clean up.

More brazing to clean up.

This is the Paris Brest fork crown after brazing onto the steerer and a soak in the water tank. I gave it a little sanding and filing.

This is the Paris Brest fork crown after brazing onto the steerer and a soak in the water tank. I gave it a little sanding and filing.  It’ll get more love after the fork is made.

This is the rosebud heating tip that I use for fork crown/steerer brazing.  It is fast!

This is the rosebud heating tip that I use for fork crown/steerer brazing. It is fast!

This is the number 2 nozzle that I use for fork ends.

This is the number 2 nozzle that I use for fork ends.

I milled a 3mm anti-rotation groove along the steerer threads.

I milled a 3mm anti-rotation groove along the steerer threads.

I cleaned up any burrs with a thread repair file.  Now the headset nut glides freely.

I cleaned up any burrs with a thread repair file. Now the headset nut glides freely.

This steel rule that John has freaks me out...

This steel rule that John has freaks me out…

Stay tuned for my next post for bender performance, laser-sintered titanium dropouts and more!

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My New Surface Table.

So, as part of my quest to tool up in a proper manner, I decided to liberate a 4ft x 3ft cast iron surface plate from Glasgow University.

With the help of two Tirfor winches, a pallet truck and an engine hoist, my good wife and I brought the plate across the bridge to the island, down the steps and onto its base in the workshop.

50 years old but in fine fettle due in no small part to being kept with a protective wooden cover, I had one more task to do before it was ready for use.

I had to drill a hole through the plate to mount my bottom bracket post.  Like some noisy hardened steel harpoon though the skin of a great silent whale, I broke through the 40mm hide of this grey leviathan and ran paper under thumb to smooth the burr.  The fine hardened stainless steel post was made in the new world by Mr Alex Meade.  The post is designed to be used with Park facing tool threaded inserts.

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I measured and drew out the shape of the casting ribs on the underside of the plate so that I could choose the optimum position for the post.

I used a thick piece of hardwood clamped to the table as a drilling guide.  I pre-drilled the wood on the pillar drill.

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I used a spring washer, a flat washer and a nylon lock nut on the stud underneath the table.

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Made in 1964, grade B (toolroom grade). More than adequate for bicycle frames.

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Ready to go. Most bike frames will fit without overhanging the surface at all. The post can be removed in 30 seconds and the wooden top replaced to use as a general work surface.

I’m really looking forward to checking and aligning frames on this table.